Trip to the
Brazilian Amazon

Dear Peter,

I’m getting back to you a bit late after my return from the Amazon. There’s a cold outbreak going around Germany right now. I joined in right away and was laid down with a fever. Apart from that, everything’s fine, and the trip went perfectly for me.

The hike up Pico da Neblina is truly special in many ways, including the plants, the animals, the panorama, the varying climate zones and vegetation, and, last but not least, the company of a Yanomami group. Regarding the required fitness, it wasn’t a bad idea (at least for someone over 60 like me) to have trained my endurance well in advance. The hike was a bit more strenuous than I expected, but the adventures and experiences were much better than I had imagined. The latter also applies to the connecting tour near Sao Gabriel da Cachoeira, which was less strenuous but provided many interesting insights into the various biotopes of the rainforest and the typical way of life of the people along the Rio Negro.

Regarding our guide, Samuel Pedro Basilo (Sam), you not only delivered on your promise but also understated it. Sam is an outstanding expert on nature, people, and their culture, especially the indigenous population. As a guide, he is an experienced professional and a very pleasant person, always available for interesting conversations on a wide variety of topics. All in all, just as I was seven years ago, I am very satisfied with my trip to the Amazon and happy about the many unforgettable impressions.

With that in mind, thank you very much for organizing the travel package, which was certainly a bit of a hassle, especially because access permits are always required for indigenous territories. Best wishes and kind regards

Uwe, Sept. 2025

P.S.: If you get in touch with Sam again in the near future, please send him my best regards and thanks again.

Trip top “Pico da Neblina” Amazon and Brazil highest mountain

An exotic trip full of memorable moments and characters. Though organizing a Neblina trip is reputedly a Kafkaesque ordeal, everything had been sorted out properly in advance of our arrival by Peter Rohmer of Southern Cross Tours & Expeditions and his local partners. Everybody was most welcoming.

Our boutique hotel provided a soft landing in the gritty, sweaty Manaus, while the rustic pousada in Sao Gabriel seemed like the Ritz on our return. The voadeira boat journeys provided a good introduction to the Amazon, especially when our boat broke down and we spent a night camping on the riverbank.

The Yanomami ceremonies at Maturaca were authentic and stirring, and a privilege to attend. With a well-cut trail, plus thatched lean-tos at the first three camps, the hike in was generally easier than I’d expected, though it still entailed several spicy river crossings, knee-deep mud and the occasional snake.

And the last stage up to high camp was a floral obstacle course, with the Imeri plateau resembling a lost world, where a dinosaur wouldn’t go amiss. Summit day was a fun scramble up fixed ropes and staples, for which I was very grateful on the descent when a deluge transformed the route into a waterfall.

Indeed, there were many unexpected challenges and unusual hazards along the way, but I always felt in very good hands. Our private guide, Sam, specially appointed for us by Peter, was top drawer – highly experienced and knowledgeable, with a good sense of humor. And our Yanomami crew were strong, resourceful and cheerful, no matter how heavy the loads or rain. I’m chuffed to have been deep into the Amazon and to have climbed Neblina, and certainly felt I deserved all the subsequent caipirinhas on Copacabana beach.

Matthew Holt/Amanda Ramsden
Neblina trip, February 2025

Hi Peter,

maybe after a while I will write a detailed report. First, just this: after more than 40 years of trekking experience, your Pico Neblina tour will have a prominent position in my memories.

Of course, first of all because of our chief guide (and big rascal) Branco, who didn’t lose his good mood for a second, chatted us out of all bureaucratic crap and even found something to eat in the most remote places. Then because of our Yanomami, for whom our well-being always came first in every situation. Our “compulsory guard” Sargento Paulo, who ate away our provisions, was an enrichment because of his jungle experience, his physical strength and his always positive charisma.

I will never forget the days in Maturaca, where, fortunately for us, a party was taking place. I felt very welcome.

So much for now from me, thanks again for this “backpackers classic”
Best regards, Stefan

When I asked for possible improvements, Stefan wrote:

Hi Peter,
you should asphalt the BR307, equip the voadeiras with a quiet electric motor, upholstered seats with backrests, convert the camps into huts with aircon and feather beds, and install a cable car for the last 900 meters of ascent…..

Joking aside, for me there was nothing to improve. To experience how to cope with the simplest means in the wilderness, how it works without a smartphone and this feeling of being at the mercy of nature was exactly what I was looking for. So 5 stars from me and thank you again.

Best regards, Stefan

Brazil’s highest mountain the 2992 meter high Pico Neblina is located on the extreme northern border in one of the most remote parts of the Amazon jungle. Three flights bring us to the small border town of Sao Grabriel da Cachoeira with a population composed mainly of 23 indigenous tribes.

An adventurous day trip by 4×4 Toyota followed by a canoe ride brings us to the Yanomami village of Maturaca. If you want to be remote, try to find this place on a map. Already on the way to the village and our one night in hammocks there, I had seen more types of exotic animals and insects than in a David Attenborough documentary. In Maturaca we met our four porters. All Yanomami, as I was soon to learn, are small in stature, strong in body, and good at heart I enjoyed my time with them immensely.

On to the summit

We then canoed as far as we could to the mountain. At only 200 metres above sea level, we had 36 kilometres to hike to the summit, and a fair bit of height to gain. We had crossed rivers and swamps and despite mosquito nets and repellent, we had all been bitten dozens of times. As long as one religiously kept a dry set of clothes to sleep in, all was right in the world. If we were lucky enough to dry our clothes in the last of the sun or over the fire it was a bonus.

Having been in the jungle for days and used to the heat, I find the rain no longer bothersome, the insect bites bearable and the terrain now rather easy. We walk 7 hours today, and three boiled sweets and a litre of flavoured water are more than enough.

Four days of trekking took us to Neblina base camp at around 2000 metres. A bit of climbing and scrambling brought us to the top of Brazil, unfortunately in the clouds and in conditions more Scottish than north of the equator.

Adrenaline

Already on the way back, we were forced to do the last hour of the canoe trip in complete darkness. Whereas in daylight we could take our time avoiding rocky outcrops and submerged trees, we now were given to luck and the skill of our pilot. It is one of my most dangerous experiences.

So for me, it was another mountain climbed in one of the most remote parts of the world, and one of the most amazing groups of people I’ve been with. Happy now that I don’t have to check my boots for tarantulas every time I get dressed.

Ginge Fullen 09/2019